After the hum and buzz of Hoi An, we found ourselves transported to the calm, green heart of Northern Vietnam. Ninh Binh surprised us in all the best ways—peaceful, breathtaking, and surprisingly easy to explore as a family of four.
We spent our days riding a single moped (yes, the four of us!) along narrow paths winding through endless rice fields. On either side, towering limestone karsts stood like ancient guardians, their reflections shimmering in the paddies’ waters. The girls giggled as we cruised past water buffaloes, chickens, and local farmers offering friendly waves. One afternoon, we stopped at a small farm called Buffalo Cave, where we held fuzzy baby chicks, fed an enormous water buffalo, and scrambled through a rocky cave that felt like our own little adventure.
But the highlight? Without question, it was Trang An. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Trang An is often called “Halong Bay on land,” and for good reason. We chose Route 3 for our boat trip, and it was pure magic. For nearly three hours, a skilled rower guided us through a maze of emerald waterways. At one point, we ducked low as our small boat glided silently into a cave—more than one kilometer long! Inside, the world was hushed and cool, the only sounds were our oars slicing through the water and our whispered wows. Emerging into the light, we found ourselves at ancient temples perched quietly at the water’s edge, places where time seemed to stand still.
We also tackled the climb to Mua Cave. Aria took it upon herself to count each and every step as we made our way up—over 500 in total! Along the way, Happy L and Happy A made friends with a mountain goat, offering him fresh leaves from a nearby tree. We took a few breaks to catch our breath (and our legs!), but when we finally reached the top, the panoramic views over the valley and river below made every step worth it.
Not every day was packed with adventure, though. On rainy afternoons, we found comfort at Cozy Garden Cafe, settling in with our laptops and schoolwork while the rain tapped softly on the roof. The girls worked on their journals and lessons, while we caught up on a few things ourselves—and, of course, we couldn’t resist their perfectly fried French fries. Crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, and served with both mayonnaise and ketchup, they became Happy Gal’s favorite snack.
And the food throughout Ninh Binh? Simple, fresh, and absolutely delicious.
We enjoyed crispy banh mi sandwiches stuffed with savory fillings and steaming bowls of pho fragrant with herbs and lime. Lunchtimes brought plates of stir-fried chicken and rice, alongside freshly made spring rolls—both fresh and fried—dipped in sweet, spicy sauces. Some of our favorite meals were at Tam Coc Westlake, where we sat by the water as the sun set, and at Coffee Lan, a little spot with friendly service and generous portions that made us feel right at home. The girls couldn’t get enough of the fresh-pressed juices and smoothies (pineapple, orange, and passion fruit were favorites), while we savored every creamy sip of traditional Vietnamese egg coffee. Even the simplest dishes, like fried rice and noodles tossed with meat and crunchy vegetables, hit the spot after long days exploring.
